Leather or Suede: a very realistic approach
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| Source; https://blacklapel.com/ |
Leather? or Suede? For which application?
Hi- I'm a male fashion lover that is constantly faced with the decision between leather and suede.
So before we get into discussing the two, lets first some definitions out of the way. (because Im a technical person. Differences are differences!)
Excerpt from Leaf.TV;
Leather is made from the outside of a hide that has been tanned, while suede is made from the treated inside of the hide. Suede is made from a hide that has been split, with the softer, velvet-like underside placed on the exterior of clothing and accessories. Both leather and suede must be treated — tanned — before being worn; otherwise they are too soft or hard at temperature extremes and are more prone to rotting.
So: Leather = Outside of hide, Suede = Inside of hide. Lets insert a diagram for good measure!
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| Source: https://www.realmenrealstyle.com/how-tell-good-quality-leather/ |
The above diagram shows the top most layers as the full grain leather, and the mid levels as top grain, with the bottom most layers closest towards the flesh as the genuine leather/suede section. Typically, the top-most layers are the most expensive when fashioned into fashion items and other commercial products.
Ok- now the factual things are out of the way. Let's discuss- leather or suede?
Well, it depends on the application. A suede jacket? Sure why not. A suede pair of shoes? Oh hell no.
So how do I make the distinction if suede is an appropriate material or not? It's all about how likely the item would get soiled/dirty under typical conditions of use. Proper regard for use is imperative for the selection of material.
Let's think about it- wouldn't you want to use a material that is easy to clean and maintain if it experiences harsh conditions? This is why leather is perfect for daily use under harsh conditions.
Leather shoes are so much more hard-wearing than suede shoes. But there is also a counter-point; Suede is deliciously smooth and tactile. Suede is such a luxurious material because it is frivolous.
Sometimes we just love things because they are just beautiful. Simple as that. Are you willing to maintain a suede pair of shoes? Or do you prefer the carefree nature of leather?I personally prefer the carefree nature of leather shoes. (I play it on the cautious side of life.)
With that considered- are there any acceptable uses for suede? YES- a resounding YES. (with a caveat)
Consider a form fitting suede biker/motorcycle jacket. Slim and slender. Soft, warm, and plush. All that we aspire to be. This is the epitome of a jacket that we wear to "go see and be seen". (Brunch-anyone?)
A suede jacket offers the traditional form of a jacket with the added luxury of a visually appealing material.But what is the caveat? There is a small grain of precaution that we must take when wearing suede. The maintenance. Oil stain? check. Permanent marker? check. Fist fight outside P.F. Changs? lets hope not.
While suede is definitely a luxurious material, we cannot treat it the same like leather. We just cant.
While I do recognize that if you are wearing suede, you're probably not doing anything particularly vigorous. It's more of a statement piece. Just something to be seen it. But if you're clubbing in NYC with a suede jacket on from ALLSAINTS while smelling Creed Aventus- you do you. The world is your catwalk.
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Detail of "HOLT SUEDE BIKER JACKET" from ALLSAINTS. We all love a form fitting Biker jacket with an asymetric zipper. |
What about any other fashion applications? Yes- backpacks, wallets, hats, and even belts.
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| Suede backpack from Banana Republic. This will last you many years if you take care of it. Buy it here: https://bananarepublic.gap.com/browse/product.do?pid=492855#pdp-page-content |
Now let's talk about bags. BAGS- BAGS- BAGS!
All bets are off for handbags- bags will be made in the most wild of all materials. Snake. Pony. Crocodile. Ostrich. Stingray. Suede included.
Maybe it's just me (its not), but I try to take care of my bags and treat them gingerly.I promise I dont bash around my bags and scrape them against concrete and cinder block walls and drag them through gravel. Now that sounds positively horrifying. But then again, I don't cry over any micro-scratch to the exterior or to the hardware- but I am of course mindful. Just be mindful. Especially if its a borrowed piece! Lets just say that some materials are more conducive to handbags than others.
The below image depicts a perfect union of suede and leather playing to their own strengths of form and function. The handles and top trimmings are made from Barenia leather, a sumptuous tanning leather that oxidizes over time and becomes even more deeply patinaed with use. The main body of the bag is made from a brushed suede material; it says "Look at me, just dont touch".
Hermes made a great choice in dividing the construction of the bag into different materials. Since the handles and mouth areas of the handbag are more likely to be touched and handled, they need to be made of a more durable and forgiving material- hence the barenia leather.
The body of the bag isn't actually touched much, so it is a great choice to use a more visually interesting (and delicate) material such as a beautiful suede. Could you imagine how awful the handles would become if they were made from suede and been handles by greasy hands or soaked up the sweat from the crook of someone's elbow? No thanks. I'd rather just have an all-leather bag at that point. At least there is some saving grace in being able to wipe off leather with a soft cloth.
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| Authentic Hermes Birkin GRIZZLY 35 GHW bag. Suede & Barenia Leather A Suede Birkin, because you are THAT kinda gal. or guy. Sold at $12,132.45 on January 20, 2018 by Vestiaire Collective. https://us.vestiairecollective.com/women-bags/handbags/hermes/brown-suede-birkin-35-hermes-handbag-3684005.shtml |
At the end of the day, leather is a safe bet for all fashion applications.
Suede is not so hard-wearing, but it is a luxuriously (albeit) frivolous choice.
The correct combination of leather and suede, keeping the usage of an item in mind, is the best of both worlds. As evident by the Suede and Leather Birkin from Hermes- for a CASUAL $12,132.45.
XOXO
Sources and further reading;
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