Smell Good/Feel Good: Navigating Perfumes. (+ My history with Scent)

Alien Perfume - Thierry Mugler - Ad Campaign 2014
I absolutely love this fragrance!!!!

You may have heard the phrase "Your reputation precedes you." Well, the same sometimes goes for when you enter a crowded room and you are wearing WAY too much of a pungent fragrance. Before we get into the whimsical chat of fragrances, lets first lay down some basic information- because the devil (who wears prada) is in the details.

Fragrances come in in a multitude of concentrations- the higher the concentration of the aromatic oils and compounds to the solvent (typically alcohol), the greater the longevity of the scent when applied to your body.

Y (Eau Fraiche) by Yves Saint Laurent (Saint Laurent Paris)

The lowest concentration is Eau Fraiche (french for fresh water), of which the aromatic oil components is within the 1-3% range. This is generally a light body splash that you might apply before and after athletic activities if you have to dash into a grocery store to pick up some spinach for your afternoon green smoothie. This concentration of fragrance is purposefully designed to be a quick perk-up, it will not last a whole afternoon- but is is appropriate for quick touch ups.

Acqua Di Parma (Eau De Cologne) by Acqua Di Parma
(honestly why didnt they name this something else)

The second highest concentration is called Eau de Cologne (EDC) or more colloquially and simply as Cologne. With aromatic components in the 2-4% range, this is a great option for the younger folks trying out new scents for the first time- light and non-committal. If you don't like it, don't worry- it will fade shortly. If you like it, spray again. 

Keep in mind that the usage of the word cologne is often a gendered one, with male users calling all of their fragrances (regardless of concentrations) a "cologne", and female users calling all their fragrances "perfume". In a business and technical sense, they are not interchangeable as they denote very different aromatic component concentrations- with EDC at 2-4% and EDP at 15-20%, before graduating to Parfum at 20-30%. In common speech they are interchangeable (given user context), but in this article I will keep true to their technical difference. (or you can call everything a fragrance and call it a day- im not too much of a nit-pick)

COCO (Eau de Toilette) by CHANEL

The mid-level concentration is called Eau De Toilette, this is the most common concentration of fragrance because it combines an acceptable longevity of scent with a friendly price point (thats fancy-dancy for affordable!). Most of the fragrances that you have on your bathroom counter are more than likely EDT 5-15% concentration. According to the wikipedia page for Eau de Toilette, this French phrase directly translates to toilet water, but is more appropriately and politely described as grooming water (at least in the modern american english usage of the phrase 'toilet water'). Trust me, toilet water is not meant to be sprayed under any circumstances. This is perfect for daily use; load up in the morning before heading out to work or to go hang out with friends, and by the end of the evening, you will still be able be able to detect the base notes of your fragrance. You may find it appropriate to touch up two-thirds of the way through your day. Moreso if you really like an aura of scent. 

N°5 (Eau de Parfum) by CHANEL

The second highest level of fragrance is Eau De Parfum (water of perfume), if you buy anything at this concentration- I really hope you like what you buy. For typical consumers, this is likely the highest concentration that they will ever buy because anything above this tier becomes far too expensive for daily use. This level of fragrance will surely have great longevity, owing to the 15-20% aromatic component concentration. A few sprays is truly enough to go for miles on end. Anything more would be cloying. 

Cuir de Russie (Parfum) by CHANEL
wow, three Chanel fragrances in a row, sponsored post? No. LOL 

The highest level of fragrance for general retail sales is Parfum (you guessed it, French for perfume). When I say general retail sale, I just mean that it is available to be purchased by the general public-though, it is typically not purchased by the general public for daily use due to the cost prohibitive nature. (VERY EXPENSIVE! It is there for the public, but mainly consumed  by the Rich & Famous) This category is truly top tier, it is the Haute Couture of perfumery. This level of fragrance is typically only manufactured by houses that have long standing heritage in perfumery- think Guerlain, Houbigant, or Penhaligon's. Perfume is all they do, and they do it quite well. This category of perfume is definitely for the fragrance connoisseur. Though some fashion fashion houses such as the esteemed houses of Louis Vuitton, Hermes, or Chanel do offer products in the Parfum concentration, they just don't hold a candle to the nuanced complexities offered by heritage houses or niche brands. A single drop or spray is enough, TRUST ME! You may even want to dab it around to dilute it.

Perfumers have access to an ever higher(!) concentration called 'Absolutes". These are the undiluted aromatic components that are formulated and diluted with solvents in order to make all of the lower concentration fragrances that are available for purchase through fragrance counters and major retailers. It is not for some special secret reason that this is not sold to the public for use, it would just be inappropriate for public and general use due to the aromatic strength. It's just way too strong. The perfume absolutes are typically singular ingredients which require solvent dissolution to truly appreciate the wide range in a component. Imagine this- If a perfume absolute was like an angry clenched fist, then the dissolved state would be like an open palm whose fingers are capped by elegantly long nails swaying gently above the fields of golden wheat with a band of gold wrapped around the ring finger on a cool but sunny afternoon. (...totally poetic...) The point is that dissolving the absolute 'opens' up the fragrance for true appreciation. 

Examples of perfume absolutes, these are definitely older bottles. As you can see, these are not bottles which the average consumer might use. These are the types designated for master perfumers to use. Please note that is a common trend for fashion houses to make fragrances with the word "Absolute/Absolue/Absolut" in their name, they are not the same type of absolutes that I reference here. The usage of the phrase "Absolute" in a perfume name is just a style choice for branding purposes.

Some other fragrance lingo/slang/street-talk I think is worth mentioning;

• Sillage; physical spread and area that the fragrance is detected within. 
• (pronounced "see-yazh")
• Longevity; amount of time that a fragrance can be detected
• Notes (Top/Mid/Base): the multitude of singular components within a perfume
• Accord/Bouquet; the blend of all notes in a perfume for a cohesive olfactory experience  

Things to consider when selecting a fragrance;

• In what setting will I wear this fragrance?
• Do you work in an office setting with younger folks, or older folks? What fragrance use trends do you see at play in your work-space?
• Is the strength of this fragrance appropriate for this setting?
• In some offices, it is very common that everyone wears fragrances, and then in some it is just typical that no one wears any, and if they do wear any, it may just be a light (practically non-existent) fragrance.
• What notes do I like?
• Take a gander at the fragrances that you have used in the past, and then think about what types of fragrances you wore in the past. Are the any similar notes or scent trends?
• What fragrances have I worn in the past, and what are their similarities?
• See above bullet point. 😀
• Maybe even take the time to search the fragrances you use the most and see what are the overlapping fragrance notes.
• How much am I willing to spend on a fragrance?
• Think about your budget for a fragrance and also think about how long it will likely last. A slightly more expensive that lasts 3-4 times longer may be worth it if you balance the cost with length of use.
• Does this fragrance fit in with my lifestyle?
• Pretty self explanatory in the traditional sense. But also keep in mind, you gotta do what makes you happy at the end of the day. If you like the fragrance, wear it proudly!
• What notes fare well on my skin, and which do not? (Fragrance + body chemistry)
• Have you ever been told that two people wear the same fragrance, but someone the fragrance smells totally different depending on who is wearing it? That is most definitely the reaction between fragrance and body chemistry. All scents will be slightly (or quite) different depending on the oils that exist naturally on your skin. Keep that in mind when buying expensive fragrances-it would be QUITE wise to get a few samples or a smaller size and use and it for a few days before purchasing a large bottle.
• How does this fragrance convey an olfactory message about who I am?
• A bit on the whimsical side; what does this fragrance SAY about you?
• Is there a scent memory with this fragrance?
• Some fragrance have strong memories associated with them, maybe your favorite aunt's perfume reminds you of the most expensive beige cashmere sweaters and that's why you buy yourself a small bottle every christmas to remind you of her while you're completing your JD in Law at Stanford Law.

So you pick your clothing quite meticulously, should you be as picky as you are with fragrances? Yes and No. Im saying that maybe you should put more than a passing glance at selecting fragrances for yourself (a few for different moods- you know), and maybe also consider changing everything up every decade or so and re-evaluating the fragrances in your current rotation. (Also consider NOT just buying what your cool cousin uses, get your own VIBE!)

A typical sight you may have while standing on the escalatory as you descend onto the wonder that is the Macy's Perfume and Cosmetics counters. If you can smell this photo, you have been traumatized by American Capitalism. Sorry, I dont make the rules.

I also might as well address this now- it's totally cool to use designer fragrances that you see at the fragrance counters that EVERYONE uses, and also that CHEAPO body splash that you got on sale from the health and beauty aisle of the grocery store (guilty!). What's the shame in using something that you like, and something that makes you feel good about yourself? So what if it may be considered "run-of-the-mill", if you're happy, you're happy- and that is all I would ever want for everyone. (Everyone can'tt afford the niche perfumes that cost upwards of $349!)

XOXO

You heard me right. Simply irresistible.

Further Reading;

• https://www.huffpost.com/entry/what-is-sillage-and-7-other-fascinating-perfume-terms_b_59c010a1e4b06ecee6b2a2e6
• http://www.elegant-lifestyle.com/perfume_houses.htm
• https://www.saveonscents.com/accords.php 
• https://www.elle.com/beauty/makeup-skin-care/tips/a11815/the-fragrance-trail-how-to-find-your-perfect-perfume-610001/ 
• https://www.fragrantica.com/

BONUS: + My history with Scent

I am listing below the fragrances that I have personally used myself, hopefully this gives you some insight to what I smelled like on any given day throughout my life. I have also included any memories associated with the scents.

Elementary School

• Probably whatever my dad used. Old Spice? I remember that there was a cream-colored glass bottle of this in the medicine cabinet. The memory I most associate with this is of the gigantic tri-fold vanity/medicine cabinet, in which this bottle was placed on the top left corner. When applied to the skin, this feels like what I would imagine wiping a HOT clorox wipe across your sweaty forehead would feel like. I wonder if this is even sold in stores anymore....



Amazon.com: Old Spice Classic Scent After Shave 4.25 Fl Oz: Beauty



• Whatever AVON bubble bath my mother has copious amounts of that I used as body wash. I remember multiple tall bottles marked "Skin So Soft" in a translucent bottle shaped with ridges like a colon and also some bottles of body wash with a built in hook mechanism built into the bottle in order to hang it from the washcloth bar in the shower. 



BathandShower Archives - Avon Lady of NJ

• Dove Bar Soap- I still have fond memories of this soap and currently use it every once in a while these days.



Dove Moisturizing Cream 1995 - YouTube

• Zest Bar Soap (Blue) - the first time I used this bar soap was in second grade during the Christmas holiday and I remembered it being very fresh and zesty like the namesake of the soap, I believe it is still sold and can be found at most dollar stores.



Vintage 1992 Original Aqua Zest Family Deodorant Bar Soap

Middle School

• AXE - Phoenix, I am apologizing in advance for using this product. I was young and stupid and didnt know better. Likely, I doused myself in a cloud of this in the trademark style of an "X" across my body. Good lord, I'm sure the use of this product was probably banned in schools due to their cloying aroma.
• Giorgio Armani - Acqua di Gio, one of the standard aquatic fragrances used by all budding males going through puberty. Fresh, clean, and light. If you ask any guy, he has probably worn this scent at some point in life, and if given the chance he will do so again! Inspired by beauty of Pantellerie, where he spent his vacation, Armani created the aroma of Aqua di Gio for men and women. The fragrance for men is a scent of freedom, full of wind and water. The composition is built of a perfect harmony of sweet and salty notes of sea water and nuances of sunny warmth on your skin. Aqua di Gio is full of scorching Mediterranean sun. Bitter citrus with aromatic nuance of rosemary intertwines with salty, sea nuances and pellucid hedione. Sharp notes of spices are softened by woody base with warm, musky trail.(https://www.fragrantica.com/perfume/Giorgio-Armani/Acqua-di-Gio-410.html)
  
• Irish Spring Bar Soap (Original version) - this bar soap reminds me of growing up very poor, and it due to these memories I am no longer able to use this bar soap. In hindsight, the bar soap is actually quite drying but it does remove body odor. (Literally everything is removed) The familiar scent of Irish Spring opens with fresh bergamot and citrus, followed by floral and herbal notes on a woody base. (https://www.theflamingcandle.com/soap-making-supplies/fragrance-oils-for-soap-making/all-soap-safe-fragrance-oils/irish-spring-type-fragrance-oil/)
• Irish Spring Bar Soap (Aloe version)the slightly upgraded cousin of original Irish spring bar soap. The first time I uses this bar soap was at my aunt Lucy's house. As a little child I thought this was super fancy, little did I know that it was just a slightly nicer version of the bar soap that my mother purchased.

HighSchool

• Liz Claiborne - Curve for Men, another aquatic type fragrance with the introduction of some synthetic green notes with green honeydew melon(?) notes. Yeah, I basically always grabbed this from my older brother's bathroom cabinet and doused myself with it. Cool Water contains mint, sea water and rosemary as top notes, lavender, jasmine, geranium and neroli as heart notes, and oakmoss, musk and sandalwood as base notes. (https://www.fragrantica.com/perfume/Liz-Claiborne/Curve-for-Men-1778.html) 
• Davidoff - Cool Water. Cool Water is fresh and sharp, simple and very masculine. Top notes include mint and green nuances, lavender, coriander and rosemary. The heart notes include geranium, neroli, jasmine and sandalwood. The base is composed of cedarwood, musk, amber and tobacco. It was created by Pierre Bourdon in 1988. (https://www.fragrantica.com/perfume/Davidoff/Cool-Water-507.html)
• Guess - Guess Man (the green one) . Guess Man by Guess is a Citrus Aromatic fragrance for men. Guess Man was launched in 2006. The nose behind this fragrance is Steve Demercado. Top note is wormwood; middle notes are nutmeg, white pepper, ginger and lavender; base notes are sandalwood, peru balsam, fir, amber, musk and suede. (https://www.fragrantica.com/perfume/Guess/Guess-Man-1592.html)

College

• Christian LaCroix - Noir. Noir is a luxurious, bold, but sensual and sophisticated fragrance for men. It is a fresh fougere fragrance that features ginger fresh saffron extract and green Asian grapefruit leaves in the top. The heart notes are cardamom, eelgrass, and cactus pear, with a slight orris whiff, that gives a special character. The woodsy notes grow stronger with the fragrance development as the base is composed of white cedarwood, driftwood, vetiver and musk. (https://www.fragrantica.com/perfume/Avon/Christian-Lacroix-Noir-1226.html)
• Calvin Klein - Eternity. Top notes are lavender, mandarin orange, bergamot and lemon; middle notes are coriander, lily, orange blossom, juniper berries, basil, jasmine, sage, lily-of-the-valley and geranium; base notes are sandalwood, amber, musk, vetiver and brazilian rosewood. (https://www.fragrantica.com/perfume/Calvin-Klein/Eternity-For-Men-258.html)
• Yves Saint Laurent - La Nuit L'homme .Its flacon is dark and powerful, as if it were announcing powerful ingredients it carries in itself. A veil of mystery and an explosive spicy accord reveal cardamom with sparkling freshness of bergamot, lavender and cedar, which stand for strength of men. Cumin and vetiver in a base ensure a sensual finish and an opulent, elegant closure. (https://www.fragrantica.com/perfume/Yves-Saint-Laurent/La-Nuit-de-l-Homme-5521.html)

Young Adult (?I refuse to be a full blown adult LOL?)

• Bath and Body Works - Beautiful day, this is probably the scent that most people know me by. I have finally run out of all of my EDT concentration of this scent and am down to the fine fragrance mist version of this. I think my run with this scent has run it's course and I do not plan to replenish in the future. Top notes are apple, pear and black currant; middle notes are lily-of-the-valley, chamomile and pink peony; base notes are white peach and white wood. (https://www.fragrantica.com/perfume/Bath-and-Body-Works/Beautiful-Day-18105.html)
• Thierry Mugler - Aura, one of the more intense fragrances. Honestly the best way that I can describe this scent is extra minty and heady pepto-bismol. I am not joking! The fragrance features rhubarb leaf, tiger liana, orange blossom, bourbon vanilla and wolfwood notes. (https://www.fragrantica.com/perfume/Mugler/Aura-Mugler-45639.html)
• Thierry Mugler - Alien (Original, Purple Bottles) The creators of Alien based the composition on three main lines: warm, white amber in the base, woodsy notes in the heart, and sunny Indian jasmine in the top. (https://www.fragrantica.com/perfume/Mugler/Alien-707.html)

Honorable Mentions of Perfumes & Colognes I want to try in the future (as a full blown adult)

• Christian Dior - Sauvage Dior in-house perfumer, François Demachy, signed this creation. The fragrance is announced as radically fresh, raw and noble at the same time. The composition is reportedly prevalent with carefully selected natural ingredients. Fresh top notes of Calabria bergamot encounter ambroxan, obtained from precious ambergris, and its woody trail. (https://www.fragrantica.com/perfume/Christian-Dior/Sauvage-31861.html)
• Christian Dior - J'Adore (the one with Charlize Theron in the add in the golden dress, that one!). Sweet but balmy, slightly sharp floral with fresh mandarin in the top; jasmine, plum, orchid and rose in the heart; and amaranth, musk and blackberry in the trail. (https://www.fragrantica.com/perfume/Christian-Dior/J-adore-210.html)
• Christian LaCroix - Rouge (a cousin to Noir by the same house). The top notes are orange peel, white pepper and red peony. The heart unites osmanthus flower, Japanese plum blossom and water lily, tulips and Spanish carnation. The woody-musk base is composed of cashmere wood, patchouli leaves, and musk. (https://www.fragrantica.com/perfume/Christian-Lacroix/Rouge-1016.html)
• Thierry Mugler - Alien Essence Absolue (Golden colored liquid in clear bottle). Thierry Mugler adds another edition to the Alien perfume collection (founded with the original Alien from 2005), Alien Essence Absolue, in summer 2012. The new fragrance is described as richly intense, sensual, deep and mysterious.The composition is developed by Pierre Aulas from accords of white jasmine flowers, orris root, animalistic black vanilla pod, incense, myrrh, white amber and cashmere wood. (https://www.fragrantica.com/perfume/Mugler/Alien-Essence-Absolue-15452.html) 
• Maison Margiela - the whole damn "REPLICA" line. Yes the whole line. 
• Prada - Luna Rossa. The composition is developed around the main note of lavender by perfumer Daniela Andrier of Givaudan. Intensity and freshness of accords are emphasized by the use of classical notes in new, innovative ways. Those notes include lavender absolute and bitter orange in the top, clary sage and spearmint in the heart, and ambrette absolute and ambroxan molecule in the base. (https://www.fragrantica.com/perfume/Prada/Luna-Rossa-15754.html)
• HAUS LABORATORIES/Lady Gaga - FAME The fragrance is built on three main accords: dark accord, sensual accord and light accord. The dark accord includes poisonous flower Belladonna and incense, which evolve into the sensual and opulent wave of honey drops, saffron and apricot. A floral veil of Sambac jasmine and tiger orchid embody light and beauty. (https://www.fragrantica.com/perfume/Lady-Gaga/Fame-15338.html)
• Maison Margiela - Replica Coffee Break. Coffee Break immediately immerses you in the cosy ambience of a charming café. Aromas of roasted Arabica beans, fine desserts garnished with lavender blossoms and frothed milk cream unite to create a delightfully pleasurable fragrance that envelops you in a relaxing way. (https://www.fragrantica.com/perfume/Maison-Martin-Margiela/Coffee-Break-55926.html)

& if you are still here- here is a meme. 😂